Yes!

Yes!

For interfacings 1810s-1820s coats generally require linen buckram or canvas and wool with lots of pad stitching. Which, if you can’t afford to buy some you can make some yourself which is what I do. As well as the video Vincent linked there’s also this one specifically on an 1840s coat which has a similar construction, which she uses An Agreeable Tyrant as the book that has all the construction notes. I highly recommend this book myself as it has a lot of notes on garment construction and interfacings from 1780-1830 for men and women’s garments.

For fitting a guy with a bigger waist I would look at this tailoring manual from the period. To make it shorter you would adjust the back measure and/or tail lengths depending on his size. I usually end up making multiple mock ups when doing coats. I made a waistcoat based on their measurements in the book and it came very close to my size as someone 5’8” who’s short waisted.

Hi! I’ve been sewing historical gowns for about 15 years. My parents ended up getting really into historical dancing after we went to a few events together. Our next event is 1810s-1820s, an era which I’m not that familiar with. Previously, we’ve been able to find decent garments for my dad while I make the dresses for me and my mom. I’d like to make something for my dad for this event, especially as there were some problems with the jacket he found. I’m a little uncertain about the canvas-usually I can just throw in a quick close-fitting coutil or twill interlining and some steel and call it a day. Do you have any advice about the structural components? Also, do you have any advice about fitting someone quite short (5 feet 6 inches) with a waist 2 inches larger than his chest? I’m not as familiar with that alteration, particularly in a jacket, and I’d really like this to be nice and make him feel good. Photos of us in 1860s/1920s included if it helps. Thanks for all the great posts!

Hello! I am definitely the wrong person to ask about this, since I have done zero 1810's-20's things. The only early 19th century tailoring I've done is that 1830's patchwork dressing gown, which I'm sure I didn't put together in the "correct" way, since I'm more comfortable with 18th century construction. And I also had to do a lot of things weirdly because the patchwork was so bulky and bumpy.

I am pretty familiar with the 1780's and 90's, but there was such a huge shift in tailoring around the turn of the century that I don't think that would help much at all with Regency/Romantic era stuff.

There are some patterns in The Cut of Men's Clothes, but that book doesn't have much of anything on the actual construction. For an introduction to canvas & all those other tailoring supplies I highly recommend this video.

I'm also not very experienced in fitting clothing on other people, despite being an alterations tailor. It's been years since I've drafted or sewn anything for someone else, and at work I just sew what the salesmen have pinned and marked.

@rowzien makes a lot of 1820's stuff though, so perhaps he can suggest some resources!

Hi I'm Lauren I'm new to this app, I'm just trying to make some friends. Can i be your friend?

so as a semi-popular blog i tend to get a lot of scam asks, but this is actually a type of scam i've never encountered on tumblr before, so i'm going to make kind of an in-depth post/psa instead of just the usual short "this is a scam" response i usually give.

usually, tumblr scammers tend to follow a few easy signs:

blog less than a week old because they use them for like a week before discarding/being banned and then remaking

fundraiser post for cause that's meant to tug at the heartstrings (cute pet that needs medical treatment, capitalizing on current crises like the genocide in gaza, single mother trying to provide for kids, queer teen who got kicked out, etc)

pictures are stolen off facebook or gofundme, oftentimes from an actual, legitimate fundraiser (this is so scummy)

paypal country code does not match with the country they state they're in

spams asks to random blogs telling their backstory and asking for donations or reblogs of their donation post, often with a request to answer privately (so the spamming doesn't show up if you search their url)

those are donation scams, and i get them in my inbox about once every week or two. they're the most common type of scam on tumblr.

THIS asker didn't mention any kind of money, or donations, or backstory. just "can i be your friend". they have no fundraiser post or in fact any original posts at all, and their blog is almost a year old with consistent activity. seems kind of normal at first glance, if a little awkward, but this is actually the beginning to what's referred to as a "pig butchering scam".

pig butchering scams can be either romance-based or friendship-based. they involve an innocuous-seeming interaction developing into a relationship, and once the scammer thinks they have your trust, they start asking for money, using that built trust as the basis. you would lend a friend some money in an emergency if they promise to pay it back quickly if you could, right?

pig butchers are definitely harder to spot than donation scammers, but there are some clear signs if you look closely enough.

the out-of-nowhere nature of the ask was what got me initially suspicious, so i searched her url. this is what that search looks like.

clearly not a user trying to actually make friends, and instead a spammer. a couple people there have already pointed out this is a pig butchering scam.

a few weeks ago, she was even bolder and doing a more donation-scam approach:

(hint: she is not going to give it back to you)

@kyra45 even posted about this as far back as september, and apparently the scammer was a blank blog back then:

if a tumblr search yields little results, you can also google someone's url. a google search led to this post with a user who got into the actual pig butchering part of the scam, developing a relationship before trying for money.

another, far less obvious tell is that she's following loads of bots, mixed in with normal users she's following. while i'm unsure if this user is a bot herself (i'm leaning toward a mixed use of a bot to send asks and personal replies once she gets a bite), normal users don't just... follow random bot/SEO accounts.

she also has a second, identical account at @pleasantdesttinykkryptonite, the same url with an extra k. possibly a backup in case she gets banned.

john oliver actually did a whole episode on pig butchering scams (already posted by someone in the url search) if you'd like to learn more.

here are real donation links for palestine & sudan

I hate to do this, but I am getting increasingly desperate and have already relied on friends more than I would like: my health issues (probably some kind of long covid or chronic fatigue or.. something resulting from getting shingles and then COVID back to back) that cost me my job have continued, and I am in the process of applying for disability but have no idea if that will even work. I would prefer to be able to afford food and rent if possible. So if you're able and willing, I would greatly appreciate anything you can spare. I have a kofi account with this username (and a link in my bio), alternatively PayPal is awarrenpa (at) gmail and Venmo is Andrew-Warren-103. Another way you can help would be to send asks about history questions so I can hopefully provide something of some value in return. And if you can't or don't want to help that's totally cool! Everything is hard for everyone! I get it. Have a photo I don't think I've ever posted on tumblr. I made that leather cap, this was when I was still an apprentice leather worker.

Portrait of a Gentleman by Anna Claypoole Peale, 1832

The MET (Accession Number: 27.221)

as an aroace person with limited sexual experience, no interest in watching porn, and poor sex ed as a teen, there IS something simultaneously funny and vaguely tragic about being 28 adult years old and realising how extremely tiny your frame of reference is for genitalia and deciding you should expand this to better understand bodies (yours and others). and then you're just there like "okay so what the fuck do I even google right now, anyway"