Prop Weapon - Tumblr Posts
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Starting assembly on the test print of this Laspistol Sculpt - Step 1, remove supports and clean up any particularly rough edges with 240 grit sandpaper
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Next, glue the main body and the power cell together using superglue
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Then, add the smaller detail pieces, again with superglue - any big gaps get filled with body filler and sanded flat-ish
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The assembled body, power cell & barrel are ready for the next step
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Time to magnetise the power cell into the mag well
The magnets are 6mm x 3mm cylindrical neodynium magnets, held in place with superglue.
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Step 1 is to glue the magnets into the power cell
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Then, use the magnets on the power cell to position the magnets in the main gun
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Test assembly to see what it looks like in one piece
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Next step - spray with filler-primer to fill in most of the layer lines from the printing process
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Then came another load of sanding with 240grit, followed by a coat of black primer
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Once the primer had dried, more sanding with both 240 & 400 grit sandpaper. The deepest groves also got filled with body filler
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Finally, the barrel was superglued to the rest of the pistol
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Everything gets a coat of grey primer (greybecause it makes it easy to see when I've covered the previous black primer coat)
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First lesson from this test print - the D & M in the Departmento Munitorum need to be tweaked to print better
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Gave the body of the pistol a coat of green, followed by drybrushing with a lighter green
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The body got masked off, then the metallic parts got a coat of gloss black primer followed by gunmetal.
The handle got a coat of matte black primer, then the trigger, trigger guard & lanyard ring got a paint of gunmetal with a regular paintbrush.
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The best bit of masking is the big reveal at the end when you peel the masking off
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All the details get a coat of gloss black paint by hand
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Then gunmetal/gold/black metal as appropriate, followed by drybrush highlights.
Weathering was done with a mixture of blue & black water-thinnable oil paints
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Once the weathering was done, the muzzle lens & ammo indicators were painted by hand
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Finally, everything got a couple of coats of satin varnish with an airbrush, followed by some gloss varnish by hand on the ammo indicators and muzzle lens - All that's left now are the beauty photos!
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All finished! More photos & lessons learned below the break
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Good news - Everything fits together
Changes needed:
1) The "19 MEGATHULE" text is too shallow and some of the strokes are too thin to survive the filler primer & sanding - Switched to a different font & slightly deeper engraving
2) The knurling on the laser sight is a bit too fine - it survived the filler primer but fewer, deeper cuts would be better
3) The Departmento Munitorum stamp on the charging handle is a little small - made bigger
If you want to make your own version, .STL files are available for sale HERE
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First impressions of using a rotary tool to shape foam - I miss the undo button!
Hopefully I can clear up the worst of the mistakes with sandpaper...
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The front part is starting to come together - the back part still needs work though
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carved the chamfers on the upper bit with a knife then cleaned it up with sanding blocks
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That wonky barrel is looking worrying - might need to stick a rod down the middle to straighten it out. Probably my fault for screwing up the laminating the foam together to make it in the first place
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Added some thin strips of foam to extend the upper barrel guard slightly
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Time to make the grip
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The chequered texture was made by cutting part-way through with a knife then heating with a heat gun to open up the cuts
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Carving the grooves into the foam with a rotary tool was... difficult. Hopefully it won't look too bad when it's painted
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The foam work is almost finished - time for the 3D printed bits
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Printing the cylinder took 3 attempts - first print came loose from the print bed; second print I forgot that you need panel gaps if you want details to be visible from a distanct.
Luckily I modelled it in Fusion360 so I could tweak individual settings without too much difficulty
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Drilled a shallow hole in the rear half to hold the spindle
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Starting to look like a revolver now
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For the muzzle & front cap, I printed them with a raised chamfered lip so I could sharpen the edge and then use them to cut slightly into the foam.
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Then they got superglued into place
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For the round details, I wanted to try and cut them out with a sharpened tube because I didn't want to try freehanding a circle with a knife. It turns out you can 3d print cutters from PLA and after sharpening with sandpaper they work ok! They do need frequent re-sharpening though.

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Cut out part of 2 of the big circles, glued to the other big circles, then added the small circles on the other side - and the hinge details are done
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Propped up like this for a progress shot because I don't want to glue the cylinder in before painting.
Not much left to actually make before painting either...
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First a coat of grey rattlecan primer to try and seal the foam, then a coat of yellow filler-primer followed by sanding to try and smooth out the texture (especially on the 3D printed parts)
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Following a final priming with black polyurethane primer, the pieces were basecoated by hand
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I did edge highlighting, because I didn't want drybrusing to pick up on the mistakes made when I was making the foam pieces. The wood texture was done with a thin brush.
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Finally, weathering with water-thinnable oil paint.
All that's left now is sealing and the final photos!
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And it's finished!
Drawings and STLs to make your own are available for free HERE
Lessons learned:
1) I should have sealed it with modpodge before priming - sealing with rattlecan primer worked, but there's an obvious difference in finish depending on face or edge of foam sheet.
2) Trying to cut perpendicular curves with a knife is HARD
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Time for a hellpistol to provide a bit more firepower (from the same forgeworld as the laspistol)
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I'm not glueing any of the small details on until after the first coat of filler primer, to make access easier for sanding
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Another tip - put some body filler on the areas that show the most layer stepping and sand it down before the filler primer. I'm sure I'll be adding some more filler, but it's good to get the worst areas a bit tidied up first
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First coat of filler primer
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and after sanding
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Followed by a coat of regular grey primer to see where more sanding was needed
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Big pieces got another coat of filler primer, then a final sanding and assembly
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Once everything was glued together, a final light coat of filler primer to fill any sanding marks
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Then a coat of light grey primer, followed by black primer (using an airbrush) and then the nooks and crannies got primed with a paintbrush.
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Step 1 - green basecoat for the body trying with an airbrush, followed by a drybrush highlight
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Step 2 - mask off the large metal areas for a coat of gloss black primer, followed by gunmetal.
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Drybrush highlight with the masking still in place, then peel in preparation for brush-painting the other details.
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All the details got a coat of gloss black primer with a paintbrush to cover up any green. Even the handle, which I meant to use matte black on 🙃
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The gold skull and wing got an undercoat of copper, followed by a topcoat of gold
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The other metal details got a coat of gunmetal, followed by a drybrush with steel. This is the point I realised if I hadn't glued all the details on I could have done this a lot easier with an airbrush 🤦♂️
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The little radiator fins got a coat of black metallic paint, then a drybrush with gunmetal.
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Fire selection indicators get a coat of red paint
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rear sight - two white dots; front sight - one red dot (there are little dimples in the sculpt)
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The muzzle lens was painted by hand with a simple gem highlighting scheme. Finally, the power indicator was handpainted with a couple of bits of masking tape to keep the borders clean.
Painting is now complete!