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Fantasy Wardrobe: Fabrics
We often call clothes silk when they are satin, velvet where they are velveteen or we have no clue what we’re on about. So today let’s look at fabrics.
Laying down the law
Many renaissance/mediaeval societies governed over who could wear what. By adding these laws you had a layer of depth to your world.
Women and men could only be dressed n clothes benefiting their position
Female servants or their daughters could not wear veils costing more than twelve pence
Knightly families could not wear cloth of gold or sable fur or velvets
The wife or daughter of a labourer were not to wear clothes beyond a certain price or a girdle garnished with silver
Cloth of gold and purple silk only worn by the royal family. This goes for ermine.
The importation of silk and lace foreigners was prohibited when the kingdom produced those textiles.
Peasant Clothing (Beggars to Merchant classes)
Wool: This was the staple of much of the clothes owned by peasants. It was in supply and it wasn’t as costly as most fabrics when undyed. It was also warm.
Linen: Forget about softness. Peasant linen was made of coarser weaves and flax. It was heavier than noble linen.
Cotton: A lightweight fabric used in hotter climates. It was softer than the linen and airier.
Fustian: heavy cloth woven from cotton, for menswear.
Leather: Leather was used for boots and shoes rather than killer jackets.
Nobility & Royalty
Cloth of Gold: Cloth made from woven threads of gold (very expensive)
Cloth of silver: cloth made from woven silver strands (very expensive)
Samite: a rich silk fabric woven with gold and silver threads
Tulle: A netting sort of material
Brocade: rich silk fabric with raised patterns sewn on it.
Cambresine: fine, lightweight linen
Cambric: thin white cotton or linen
Cypress: gauze made of cotton or silk
Damask: like brocade but the patterns are flat
Delaine : light wool/mixed wool and cotton
Lawn: sheer plain-woven cotton or linen
Sarsenet: fine and soft silk
Sateen: glossy cotton or wool
Satin: closely woven silk, shiny
Taffeta: Thickly woven silk
Velvet : piled fabric of silk, cotton or synthetic material
Velvetine: cotton with silk pile
Saxony: fine, delicate woollen fabric
Alençon Lace: intricate floral lace with three-dimensional corded detail sewn onto a fine tulle backing
Chantilly Lace: lightest of lace
Charmeuse: smooth, flowing, silk, cotton,
Chiffon: sheer and lightweight fabric
Crepe de Chine: thicker, lightly textured silk
Dupioni: crisp lusturous silk
Organza: sheer and lightweight fabric of very fine weave silk
Georgette: sheer fabric of silk
Guipure Lace: heavier lace
Designs
Embroidery: Patterns sewn on the fabric by thread
Appliqué: decorative fabric, often lace or floral motifs, sewn onto the main material
Embellishment: details such as beads, crystals, sequins, pearls
Trim: a line of material or fur that finishes off a hem or cuff.
Piping: a cord lining the fabric creating a ribbed look.
Colours
Here are the colours that you will catch your people wearing. Keep in mind that dyes had to be sourced and could be very expensive.
Peasant: brown, red or gray.
Nobility: Gold, silver, crimson or scarlet, deep indigo blue, violet colors and even deep black and pure white colors
Royalty: Purple
Furs
Mink: Soft and lightweight, silkly and glossy furs
Fox: Long, lustrous, colourful and easy to dye.
Ermine: White fur streaked with black (ONLY FOR ROYALTY)
Sable: long, luxurious, dense but light.
Wolf: thick, tough, warm but has a bad smell
Vair: fur from a red squirrel really only used for trimming.
my weakness is boys in baggy jumpers
green hair michael
1956 High School Exchange Students in USA Debate on Prejudice (2)
(Caution: They showed their prejudice in this discussion. The program intended to overcome them by showing them each other. These are not my own prejudice. No offense.)
In 1956, one of the “bad habits” in the U.S. these exchange students came to have is rock and roll. They said so in the last episode. I don’t think Ed Sheeran’s new song wasn’t released at that time.
I update the information of “being proud of small and delicate” It is hardly found in the public discourse now in Japan. Successful Japanese international sports players are enough tall to play. In a TV commercial, businessmen drink energy drinks and work hard. However, the sense still can be found in traditional art. And “Kawaii” things are descendants of “small and delicate.”
Still, in the 21st century, authoritarian governments oppress free and open discussions. And freedom of speech is not always really free even in the former “free world”.
An emergent issue is sharing basic facts. They shared basic facts of colonialism, WW2, the segregation. And then they had an open, free and beautiful discussion. Misinformation and conspiracy theories have destroyed the common ground which should be a start point.
1956 youngsters still tell a lot.
Here’s a “life-hack” for you. Apparently concentrated Kool-Aid can be used as a pretty effective leather dye. I was making a drink while cutting the snaps off some new straps for my pauldrons and I got curious, so I tried it, thinking, “ok even if this works, it will just wash out.” Nope. It took the “dye” (undiluted) in about 3 seconds. After drying for about an hour and a half, it would not wash off in the hottest tap-water. It would not wash out after soaking for 30 minutes. It did not wash out until I BOILED it, and even then, only by a tiny bit and it gave it a weathered look that was kind of cool. Add some waterproofing and I’d wager it would survive even that. That rich red is only one application too. Plus it smells great, lol. So there you go, cheap, fruity smelling leather dye in all the colors Kool-Aid has to offer.
More medieval dyes for y'all!
Deaths Lullaby
No Flex Zone
I love this color on Gemma Styles.
Easter Fun
Foulard à la teinture végétale
Alfonso Y.J. P. Luhvinchject
Cotton, de l’igname
48 X 48 CM
植物染頭巾
婁文越
棉，薯榔
48 X 48 公分
Les échantillons à la teinture végétale
Alfonso Y.J. P. Luhvinchject
Soie, de l’armoise
植物染樣
婁文越
絲，艾草
La teinture au pitaya
Peaux de pitaya, soie
Alfonso Y.J. P. Luhvinchject
Voici la réponse: le pitaya! Avez-vous gagné?
火龍果染
火龍果皮, 絲綢
婁文越
猜對了嗎?!
天青 (version française en bas)
婁文越
最近故宮特展展出了優雅的天青色瓷器，不禁讓我想起了這件作品。這是我學習植物染的第一件作品，它的顏色卻一直讓我覺得宛如秘色天青，貴若晨星。
你們知道這是甚麼植物染出來的嗎？
Un bleu de ciel très claire
Alfonso Y.J. P. Luhvinchject
Recemment, au Musée du palais à Taïpei, il y a une exposition des porcelaines de bleu de ciel. Les grandes oeuvres me fassent penser à cette teinture. Il s’agit de mon premier travail de la teinture naturelle. Sa couleur me donne tout à fait une impression d’une bleu discrète du ciel, et d’une trèsor cher comme les étoiles au lever du soleil.
Vous sauriez peut-être d’où elle vient, cette couleur?
大青生染絲巾
(Version française en bas)
婁文越
絲巾，大青（山藍，Strobilanthes cusia）汁液
臺灣藍染產業在荷蘭據臺時期起陸陸續續有紀載，少說也有四百年歷史了。十八十九世紀臺灣藍染興盛，大量出口周邊各國，直至化學染劑興起，才漸漸沒落。
這樣沉謐的藍色，其實就是源自於臺灣的兩種植物：山藍（俗稱大青，學名：Strobilanthes cusia ）與木藍（Indigofera tinctoria）。山藍與木藍透過一定方法處理後，可以染出如深海一樣的藍。而在未處理之前直接絞汁染色，便可染成這樣雅致的天青色。
Voile de la teinture à l’Indigo de l’Assam
Alfonso Y.J. P. Luhvinchject
Voile de soie, jus de l’Indigo de l’Assam (l’Indigo montagnard, Strobilanthes cusia)
La teinture de l’Indigo taïwanaise a été exceptionnellement célèbre au XVIIIe et XIXe siècles à l’Est de l’Asie. Elle a été une activité commerciale très importante. Selon les documents, son hisoitre se peut remonter plus tôt que la colonisation néerlandaise, c’est-à-dire à XVIIe siècle.
L’Indigo taïwanais vient de deux plantes différente: l’Indigo de l’Assam ( Strobilanthes cusia ), nous l’appelons aussi l’Indigo montagnard, et l’Indigotier (Indigofera tinctoria). Apèrs les avoir traités, ils deviennent la teinture d’une couleur de bleu profond à la fin. Et si vous faites de la teinture directement avec leurs jus, sans traitement, vous aurez cette couleur élégante d’une petite matinée ensoleillée.